Cheers to Sudhir Seth, the owner-chef of Passage to India restaurant in Bethesda with his Spice Xing in the trendy Rockville Town Square. Featuring a more casual dining atmosphere and a full-bore luncheon buffet, this restaurant brings the best of Seth’s regional cooking into a family-friendly setting that is dramatic and yet contemporary. While the buffet tempts the young and hungry, fans of Seth and his traditional cooking can order favorites off his regular menu. Even if you cannot imagine skipping the noon buffet, be sure to schedule a noontime stop, then place an order for his elegant salli boti jardaloo (a lamb and apricot stew) and his aloo do piaza (cumin-seasoned potatoes). Good starters include the south Indian uttapam (lentil and rice pancakes) and the tamarind-glazed shrimp.